Kayaking, partying, ten pound poms and farewell Australia!

There’s a great community spiritin Barwon Heads, and Claire’s friends are totally exceptional. In addition to our wonderful friends Clare and Andy, we spent time with Robyn B (oh! Robyn it was SOOOOO good to see you, and to meet Brooke and Dom), Robyn and Marque, and Noni and Charlie.

Julie and Tony hosted a ‘book launch’ house party for me on Friday night in their beatiful home. Amazing! There was a live band (The Gems) which included Tony on drums…..fab Tony! Paul and I were overwhelmed with the hospitality and kindness of this wonderful couple. Thanks Julie (new sister!) and Tony for everything…book loans, advice, coffee, kayaks and the party! Niece extraordinare (Claire) said a few words about my book, and our family. Again, another poignant moment.

Robyn and Marque invited us for a BBQ on Saturday night, another memorable night. We are becoming more convinced that BH is the ‘place to be’! I loved chatting to Robyn W about the history of Australia….thanks Robyn. I almost don’t need to read ‘Buckley’s Hope’ now! And Noni, the tales of your Polish grandmother really made me think. I so enjoyed talking to you. And it turns out Julie's parents were Ten Pound Poms. I love the story of how new lives started on little financial investment, and although the emotional investment was probably far greater for her parents I would like to guess they felt it was well worth it!

Rob and Tony took us kayaking, what an experience! Barwon River was cool. Day after Tony and Paul repeated the fun but the travelled in the opposite direction. We met them later at the Heads, and Paul was quietly admired by the friendly owner, who offered him a huge slice of date cake ‘to keep his strength up!’ He certainly took a shine to those boys!

Champagne with Robyn on Saturday afternoon, in the sun again, was a special treat….especially as it was meant to be a coffee!

On Sunday (last day) we visited Ballarine Estate winery and had light lunch with Julie and Tony, accompanied by James, Tony and Julie’s nephew on the guitar. Lovely voice James!

I took some time to make a short film for Tom and Claire, about the first 'leg' of their travels. I also heard that they loved it!

The last party was a quieter affair, but was perhaps the most important! Lottie, special Lottie is 16 today…so last night another BBQ with a delicious chocolate cake (made by Lottie herself) was in order. Happy Birthday Lottie! You are a credit to your Mum, and I am so proud of you. Can't wait to tell your Grandma all about you. 

 

As I write this last blog whilst preparing to leave this remarkable land after an extraordinary adventure, I am reminded that it wouldn’t have been half as good if not orchestrated by and shared with, Claire Geldard. We are forever grateful.  

 

From Point Lonsdale to Queenscliffe

The coastline here is spectacular, and as we walked 12k we mostly skirted the rolling sea, enjoying the warm sun on our backs. Lottie’s back however was not good but after some medication she was able to join us for the treck. It was energizing. Stanley ran in and out the sea and kept us entertained.

We dined at Seafood Providore at Queenscliffe Harbour enjoying seafood at its best, accompanied by crisp white wine and a friendly waiter!  Later in the evening we were entertained by Liz and Jo; two midwife friends of Claire’s. All in all, a great day!

 

I’ll meet you under the clocks

Tom and Claire are working in St Kilda, a Melbourne suberb. We found their flat, and then went in search of coffee. Tom directed us to Acland St and Monarchs Coffee/Cake Café, established in 1937. DE-licious! 

We then caught a tram into the city. We’ve visited Brisbane and Sydney, and many have encouraged us to call on Melbourne and see the sites, where the old heritage buildings blend with the new. We really were full of admiration for the city earlier as we approached by car, and now by tram. I have been reading Savage Cows and Cabbage Leaves by Marie Alafaci, where Alafaci describes the detail of her aunt and uncle’s life when they emigrated to Melbourne from Italy, in 1927. The portrayal of survival (and it was just that, survival) is a bleak reminder of what went before in this prosperous country. Great read, and now I was about to see the sites I’d read about, decades on.

Claire, still the best tour guide EVER, whipped us round almost every tourist spot. First stop was Eureka Tower which boasts being the second tallest building in Australia   and  the observation deck on the 88th floor provides the most spectacular views of Melbourne, and all the important landmarks. It reminded us of being at the viewing station in the Empire State Building, but with the advantage of huge spaces with protective expanses of glass. Paul, Lottie and I dared to sample ‘The Edge’

, which is not for the faint hearted. It consists of a glass cube which projects 3 metres out from the building - with you in it - suspended almost 300 metres above the ground! We were encouraged to lie on the floor, to experience the feeling of falling through the air…..utterly thrilling!  

The day was spent in scorching heat, but each place was spectacular; we were intrigued with the historical buildings such as Flinders Street Station, with it’s famous row of clocks above the main entrance, indicating the next train times. Melburnians use this as a popular meeting place…….‘I’ll meet you under the clocks’.

We saw some of the old and new: Parliament House, War Memorial, St Paul’s Cathedral, Federation Square, Royal Exhibition Building, Bowsed through the Laneways and Block Archades, experienced the Circular Tram (free!), and lastly we enjoyed a chilled drink in the Docklands.

Later we took another tram back to St Kilda…to the George Melbourne Wine room, where Tom is taking over as Head Chef for a few months. Claire B works there too, and we were once more greeted as long lost friends. Aimee and Archie came, and Claire B….and we enjoyed a delicious feast together. The weather by now was torrential rain….and as Claire drove us home we felt full, hot, tired and so happy to have visited Melbourne.

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

Red back spiders, deciduous trees and ‘fair dinkum’!

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I heard the familiar shout of my name from outside and I knew instantly a spider had been located. Paul hates these creatures at the best of times, but the one HE ALMOST TOUCHED as he pumped the tyres on one of Claire’s bikes was the potentially fatal Redback spider, also known as the latrodectus hasselti. Wikipedia informs us that the Redback is one of the most dangerous spiders in Australia. So Paul had every right to scream. Aaarg! The spider is not commonly seen, and as Claire Nield later told us later that day she had never seen one in 8 years, we felt that Paul had been extremely unLUCKY!!!!

Still, he loves a dramatic tale, and this one I know will be told and further told. Bill Bryson recounts many anecdotes to me daily as I read his book Down Under, the hazards and anomalies of staying/living in this far off land are countless but are far outweighed by the positive aspects. The trees and shrubs, the plants and even common grass is so different to England and even Europe. Each day I see something different to marvel at, and the “Australians’ (I can’t help thinking there’s no such thing) entertain me with their enthusiastic and distinctive accent. ‘How ya going?’ is the phrase for ‘Hi!’ and is said with such a positive lilt. Love it!  We are intrigued by the need to add the letter ‘O’ to some words, such as ‘rego’ for registration plate, ‘arvo’ means afternoon, ‘ambo’ for ambulance, and so on!

 

And of course, we (the English) are Pommes (Potatoes? Pomegranates?) , or POMES suggested as meaning Prisoner Of Mother England - as emblazoned on the clothes of the convicts as they arrived in this land.......

 

Catching Babies....a memorable day in Australia

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It was a beautiful sunny day! My book finally arrived and was in my hands yesterday morning, after a drive to Geelong to the post depot. It was a significant moment for many reasons. Claire, my lovely midwife niece and special friend drove Paul and I to the town with excitement, as we knew a parcel had tried to be delivered the day before. Geelong is where Claire works, and we passed her hospital in search of the street.

We sat three in the car and tears came as we saw the book for the first time, and my message to Kathleen....it was an overwhelming ten minutes....then we walked to Cunningham Pier for champagne and lunch to celebrate.

Olivia has been reading a copy of Catching Babies; the one that arrived in Whalley last week. I recieved regular messages from her full of emotion as she enjoyed the words. Hope others who read it feel the same! Paul is reading avidly. Let's see what he makes of it......

 

Poo Head and Uno with a twist.......

Before you are anxious about my language, Poo Head is the name of a card game. Wednesday night resembled a casino at Knox Drive. Tom and Claire are teaching us Poo Head (Oh Dear!) and Claire G upgrading our knowledge of Uno!! Not for the faint hearted! We have developed our own language and Claire (Babesy Lamb) is learning that too…..ha! LOVE playing these card games.

Thursday was a lazy morning…….longer sleep and breakfast chez Claire for a change!

 

Sun came out, then lunch at The Dunesafter long walk along the beach from Barwon Heads to Ocean Grove. First time for four of us! Lottie loved spending time chatting to Claire, and vice versa. A new friendship me thinks!

Walked back along river for R and R then walked into BH for authentic Mexican meal at El Poco Burito (used to be The Pod) and Crushed Iced Marguerites! Yum…..but brain freeze and frozen oesophagus!

This morning we took Lottie to work in Ocean Grove and had a roam around and Tom and Claire purchased some ingredients for tonight’s feast! We have guests! Aimee Byrom (niece and horse trainer extraordinaire), Archie her partner and Jye, Lottie’s boyfriend!! Lovely Andy coming too, and perhaps Marcus. 

Two hours was endured by the sea this afternoon…we (C,T,S and P) had a wonderful swim in the ocean.

Pink fizz already flowing, and sun still high. Ahhhh 

 

Parrots and Koalas

Lottie at school today. I marvelled at her school shoes which are almost identical to the sandals I wore as a child. T Bar sandals. Apparently they are compulsory for ALL children here, no negotiating! This information was verified when I saw a group of schoolgirls from a different school later in the day, all in the same footwear! Great idea me thinks, especially after the battle of the shoes when our children were younger……

An early start (8.30am) and drive to Lorne to have BBQ breakfast next to the sea, bacon, tomatoes and eggs in full view of a Japanese tourist who was, apparently mesmerized. ‘Are you not cooking fish?’ he asked Tom. Fish isn’t in a full English he thought. Another delicious meal. We found one of Claire’s famous coffee shops and then off again to Kennett River Campsite and beach to find the tropical birds and koalas. Claire purchased some bird seed and we were off in full pursuit. We had had the pleasure of this activity before, but Claire and Tom where totally in awe. As the birds swooped and landed on their hands and heads they smiled and squealed with delight. The cute but docile Koalas where harder to find but we were advised by the ‘bird man’ to go further up the road which we did. A few closer glimpses meant that Claire was thrilled and happy! She even tried to coax one down from a high eucalyptus tree. We had to eventually leave them to sleep, and we moved back to Lorne for a fabulous drink by the sea, and some lunch.

A spot of thong (flip flop) purchasing, and a book for Seamus, and then a car journey home in full sun which reflected perfectly on the sea….. Another wonderful day in Australia

 

Meeting Tom and Claire in Middle Brighton, and Lottie in Ocean Grove

It was magical driving up to the Baths on Monday and seeing Tom and Claire sitting on the wall, with grins from ear to ear. They look so well! We had bear hugs and kisses. Tom and Claire have been in Melbourne since July and are hoping to travel and work for a year….they are obviously happy. So good to see that.

Their boss (Chef) Paul invited us to eat in the restaurant, his treat. Wow, what a treat it was! We had impeccable service, Champagne aperitif and the fine food was sensational.  Three hours and lots of tales later we headed off to Ocean Grove to collect Lottie from work and then to Claire and Lottie’s home, in Barwon Heads. Lottie as lovely as ever, so mature and sociable. AND a beauty too! Claire=proud. So good to see you Lottie!

Tuesday was Melbourne Cup Day. This national holiday causes much excitement in Australia and gambling on the horses is a widely accepted norm. We were invited chez Nields, and arrived around 2pm armed with plenty of fiz and some antipasto. We had breakfasted earlier en masse at the Beachouse, delicious. More catch up time with Tom and Claire. The Nield ‘Cup’ party soon got going as their fabulous friends arrived.  Their luxurious family home is the perfect venue for such occasions, we spent time watching the races (well not me), chatting, wandering outside to observe the acrobatics (!!) and we ate BBQ’d sausages and bread lovely made by Andy and Claire.  The evening was memorable, we saw Robyn Booth (after 16 years!) and we enjoyed an hour or two in the luxurious spa! We all had a blast. It certainly was a night to remember! Wednesday was big walk day with Stanley and a snack at the Heads, then a big chillout. Necessary to recover from the horse race day! Oh….nearly forgot. Lottie camping out tonight. What’s occurring!

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Meeting with the Nields in Lakes Entrance

Lakes Entrance  (a fishing and tourist town) in Victoria was the next stop on Friday 28th October to meet up with Clare, Andy, Leah and Marcus Neild, and Marcus’ friend Mitch.

We arrived to soaring temperatures and retreated to a bar for a welcomed ice-cold beer. A rest and some reading on a bench overlooking the water that hosted the famous black swans and pelicans helped to keep us occupied until the special family arrived. Great reunion when they did! Lots of hugs and kisses and great big grins…a few drinks whist excitedly making plans for next two days. A poor weather forcast wasn’t going to get in our way…Clare had come armed with an array of games.

Early walk on Saturday morning to a coffee shop, without children. great catch up. Then Andy cooked us bacon and eggs Oz style on an outdoor BBQ. Loved it!

Victoria is in a frenzy of excitement as Melbourne Cup date advances and bobbing jockeys were on all screens when we visited a pub in the afternoon in Metung to shelter from the downpour. We felt sure this beautiful holiday resort would’ve looked better in the sunshine. Great tapas later and then back to the ranch for games. Apparently we are rowdy! We played Gestures though there were some (males) that later admitted to cheating (it was PB’s idea as usual!) Well played girls! It wasn’t PB’s turn to do handstands later. Impressive Andy!

Sunday a better day, we were up early and off out walking again to view the lakes from above, Claire G had developed a sore throat so needed to sleep on. Later we played mini-golf in the semi sunshine, on a great course! A few displayed unleashed talent in the sport! Miriam’s restaurant was the venue for the evening meal and what an amazing choice! Spectacularly delicious menu. BYO wine meant we could use up prior purchases and relax. Great night!

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Off to Brighton on Melbourne now to meet Tom and Claire, and to eat (again) in the restaurant where they work….can’t wait to see them! 

 

Breastfeeding in public in Australia

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So refreshing see the normal activity of breastfeeding babies in public totally acceptable here. This family enjoyed their meal together outside a cafe in Husskison, and baby Brookejoined in too! And why not?

I asked the family if I could take a photograph to send to Anna and Sue who could then use it to support and protect breastfeeding in the UK. We all had a lovely chat about the Australian breastfeeding culture. Most units work towards the BFI standards, which I learnt was part funded by the Australian College of Midwives! Hurray!

 

A visit to Hicksville.....

Narooma good for golfing, surfing, boating, whale and dolphin watching and eating! Another fabulous cabin to stay in almost on the beach.  Spot on Claire!! Breathtaking views whilst partaking in aperitifs. A sleep on the slopey grass area disturbed by Mrs Butler and her class of young children, interesting to hear her reasoning! Thursday morning up at 6.30 and walking on the beach by 7. A scrumptiously amazing breakfast chez Michael…Eggs Benedict just the job (for PB).

Rolling hills, luscious green carpet of grass just like the Ribble Valley, but with the added bonus of sea at it’s edges!!!  Central Tilba next stop for a spot of gold mining! Such an interesting heritage town, perfect example of Hicksville! AND another Take 5….wow! (First one posted here Lil!). Fabulous male candle maker told us the importance of the cheese and inhabitance of the 'city'.

Next stop Pambula for a spot of lunch with the surfers, then check in at tonight’s cabin in Merinbula Yahoo! Another residence with a briny view...

Sat now listening to the sea with a G&T…. oh, I nearly forgot…..the quiz.

 

Take 5 in Ulladulla

 

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Tuesday. Raining this morning! Down the coast we went calling in at the trendy Rick Stein at Bannisters  near Mollymook for coffee.  Good stuff.  Our holiday residence for the night was in Ulladulla; a quirky harbour town with quaint shops. Today was the day we bought a quiz mag ‘Take 5’…think England’s equivalent of Take a Break!! Aaargh! This highly unusual purchase happened on the recommendation of Lil….we went full on into the competitions Lil! What a great laugh. What’s occurring Claire? Thanks G for PB; at least he could do the number ones.  During a short stroll we caught glimpse of the parrots and Kookaburra. Paul and I visually feasted (as newcomers to the land do) on the brilliantly vibrant colours of these tropical birds feeding from red bottle brush plants, and the way the Kookaburra plumped up it’s feathers as I moved in to catch a photo opportunity.  So far, the mosquito bites are the only thing vaguely annoying in this beautiful county.  

On the road again on Wednesday morning to Narooma. Great stop off for coffee fix @ Bodalla's

By the way....quizzes almost finished!

 

The Whale

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Agreement was made to sail into the ocean at 12 midday on a whale watching tour.  The boat with the three of us and about 40 more drove speedily to where the mammals were resting on their migration to the south. They were ‘logging’ which means lounging around with their humps visible. We saw various pairs of mother-infant dyads, playing, blowing and jumping. Utterly amazing. Claire and I propped each other up at one point as the distance between these enormous, graceful creatures became smaller.  Love this. Cloudy Bay bubbles, iced Hahn beer and antipasto seemed so perfect on both nights. Catching up needs sustenance!

 

 

Jervis Bay

Husskison. We arrived on Saturday morning.  The first beach I caught a glimpse of made me verbally sigh. This is Australia at it’s best and the nearest thing to heaven. We walked on white sand and felt the powder slip through our hot toes….all to the sound of gentle waves and birdsong. We found our pre-booked cabin….literally on the doorstep of  the Pacific. Wow.

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At 7.30 on Sunday morning I heard Claire’s footsteps in the kitchen.  By 8am we were in the already sundrenched ocean, where water wrapped our sleepy bodies with a refreshing chill.  The sunrise was like an inverted pyramid andshimmered on the surface of the sea. Almost touching us….and we swam towards it’s peak even though PB was alerting is to the potential shark attack!  After a delicious home made (semi-healthy!) breakfast we set off for Hyam’s famous beach….voted as one of the top five in Oz. It was breathtaking. We bathed again, and walked and rested in the morning sun.  

 

Lots to think about...

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We left Sydney today. Sydney the wonderful cosmepolitan city, vibrant and modern yet set in ahistorical backdrop with stunningly beautiful architecture. Down the coast we drove passing through the Royal National Park to Kiama...a picturesque seaside town with palm trees, green cricket lawns, and white boats bobbing in the sea. The warm sun helped us to enjoy the pink champagne in Sebel bar, listening to a string quartet that were fortunately playing in the garden overlooking our seats....playing for the newly married couple and their guests. As we walked round the bay under the influence of a glass or two, I thought about how different life is here, in the Antipodes. The children seem to have more space, the adults more time. Lovely Claire is so organised and full of fun; as always a pleasure to be with. We are far away from home, but it feels like home because she is with us. Lil and Gearge have left us now, after lovingly caring for us and showing us the wonderful sites. What will tomorrow bring?

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The Grand Mosque Abu Dabhi

 

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We arrived in Abu Dhabi late on Thursday night. What a welcome from Grace and Rob.  It was even warmer than the Middle Eastern atmosphere that engulfed our bodies as we disembarked the Etihad aircraft.  Their life in this city is obviously blissful and their home in the suburbs a true sanctuary. One of the most incredible revelations was that they never EVER need to lock their house door, and car keys could be left in an unlocked car. Crime is not tolerated it’s true, but the underpinning philosophy of the locals is that they wouldn’t take anything that that didn’t belong to them! Amazing.

 The visit to this Mosque was mind blowing. A spiritual experience. An education.  My limited knowledge of Islam derived from working as a community midwife in Blackburn meant that I was pleasantly surprised to be allowed in the place of worship. As a female and a Christian, admittance would normally be prohibited.  A pre-requisite was that we wore robes, Robin and Paul wore white, and Grace and I black (hijab)….with head cover too.  We adorned the clothes in the intense heat, and made our way wide-eyed through the lavish golden temple.  When questioned by another, the guide gave an interesting rationale of why women couldn’t pray at the Mosque, with a perfectly planned positive spin. My cynical feminist spirit was aroused many times during our stay in AD.  But I could not fail to admire the peace and perceived safety of being there.

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